Add --renderer for displays with no usable GPU; gate the header reading

GTK4 defaults to Vulkan, and an X11-forwarded display has no device to make a
swapchain from; the plot is a GtkGLArea, so it then asks for a GL context that
is not there either. --renderer cairo is the software preset for that display:
it exports GSK_RENDERER=cairo and LIBGL_ALWAYS_SOFTWARE=1 in main() before
gtk_init()/adw_init(), because both are read when the renderer and the context
are created. --renderer gl is the faster choice when indirect GL works, and
--renderer vulkan makes the default explicit. Nothing is exported, and GTK's
own choice stands, when the option is absent.

The once-a-second header line is now behind UDPSCOPE_PROBE_HEADER, following
the [notrace] rule: its widths are still sampled for the exit dump, but the
line is detail behind that reading rather than output every run prints.
UDPSCOPE_PROBE_RENDERER prints the exported pair before GTK starts and the
GskRenderer GTK actually built.

README, the manual's overview and docs/claude record the two symptoms and the
cure.

docs/claude/verification.md

@@ -155,6 +155,17 @@ precedent, not an exception.
   (the frame's ink is the image) and would otherwise be counted as well. The counter itself is in
   every build; see [probe-readings.md](probe-readings.md).
 
+- `UDPSCOPE_PROBE_HEADER` (no value; **not** a scheduled probe) — the once-a-second
+  `[udpscope] header: window_button_w=… bar_w=…` line. The widths are sampled either way (the
+  exit dump reads them); the line is behind this variable because it is detail behind that
+  reading, not a line every run should print. An unallocated window reads `0` for both.
+- `UDPSCOPE_PROBE_RENDERER` (no value; **not** a scheduled probe) — the renderer pair
+  `--renderer` should have exported, printed from `main()` before GTK initialises
+  (`[renderer] option=… GSK_RENDERER=… LIBGL_ALWAYS_SOFTWARE=…`), then the renderer GTK
+  built (`[renderer] realized=…`) once the window has one. Run it with `--renderer cairo` to
+  check the option reaches the environment before `gtk_init()`/`adw_init()`; run it without
+  the option to check the default is untouched.
+
 - `UDPSCOPE_PROBE_TRIGRENUM_MS` — the trigger's capture must survive a **renumbering of its own
   channel**. It sets the reported geometry through the real widgets (1 s window, 10 % pre share,
   hold-off from `--holdoff`) on the mock's *square* alone, polls for a capture to open, and then